Discovering some of the most charming literary cafés in Trieste, through an itinerary that begins right from one of the most famous in the world, the Caffè degli Specchi.
Trieste is the literary city par excellence, famous for its cafés where Joyce, Rilke, Saba, Svevo once met to discuss the arts. A social custom that dates back to a long time ago, ever since Charles VI of Austria transformed the city into a free port in the 18th century and the importation of coffee became one of its main industries. Here, the ritual is obligatory: choose a secluded table, open your favorite newspaper and order a capo in B, the traditional white coffee (caffè macchiato) served in a small glass cup.
Caffè degli Specchi
Founded in 1839, it is the only remaining of the four cafés in Piazza Unità d’Italia, once called Piazza Grande. Since then, it has been a protagonist in all the most important chapters in the history of Trieste, frequented by irredentists at the end of the 19th century and became the headquarters of the Royal Navy after World War II. It owes its name to the fact that, since its opening, it was customary to engrave the most important events on mirrors or sheets of glass. When the sun kisses the wonderful square, the people of Trieste do not fail to reserve a table in the front row and enjoy their “parlor” with a good capo in B and a praline. The Caffè degli Specchi is, in fact, today owned by the Faggiotto family, renowned chocolatiers.
La Bomboniera
Near the Grand Canal, Pasticceria La Bomboniera, also run by the Faggiotto family, is a splendid example of Viennese Art Nouveau, opened in 1836 by the Eppinger family, who emigrated from Hungary. The café retains its beautiful wooden furniture and period furnishings and is famous because, in addition to Trieste sweets, they also serve traditional Austro-Hungarian cakes, still prepared today in an original wood-fired oven dating back to the early 1800s. Sit on its terrace, watching life slowly pass by and perhaps tasting the famous Fave Triestine: almond-based morsels, typical sweets of the October-November period in the Trieste and Gorizia area.
Antico Caffè San Marco
Its history begins in 1914, in an Assicurazioni Generali building, where Marco Lovrinovich, originally from Parenzo, decided to open his first place. Unlike other cafés, San Marco has consolidated its reputation as a literary café in recent years. Since 2013, in fact, it has been managed by the entrepreneur Alexandros Delithanassis, born in Trieste to a Greek father, already in the family publishing business, who has managed to make it a protagonist of the artistic life of Trieste. Here he gave life to a unique concept in Italy that has seen the opening, with direct management inside, of a bookshop, a restaurant and a pastry shop. One of the most beautiful cafés in the world and not only in Trieste.
Caffè Sacher
Located in Via Dante Alighieri, it is the first Caffè Sacher in Italy. Even though it opened only in 2023, it brings with it all the charm of the Viennese style and the Central European atmospheres of the late 19th century. Its birth is due to the Austrian entrepreneur Dizzi Alfons who, having moved to Trieste, sought and strongly desired an agreement with the Winkler and Gϋrtner family of the Hotel Sacher in Vienna to be able to open the cafe as a franchise. Here, among red velvet sofas, marble and liveried staff, it is a must to taste a Sacher Torte, created in 1832 by the apprentice pastry chef Franz Sacher for Prince Klemens von Metternich.
Berlam Coffee Tea & Cocktail
The DoubleTree by Hilton Trieste in Piazza della Repubblica hides a treasure: the magnificent literary café located in the first floor lounge once dedicated to the RAS top management meetings. Even though it opens at 5 pm, and is therefore more ideal for a tea or an aperitif, it is definitely worth a visit. The building that houses it was, in fact, built between 1911 and 1913 to house the headquarters of the Riunione Adriatica di Sicurtà, an insurance business founded in 1838. It was intended to demonstrate the “power” of the company, thus becoming one of the last in Italy built without limits of expense, size, vision. The café is named after its architects Ruggero and Arduino Berlam, father and son, the latter also author of the famous Faro della Vittoria in Trieste. Here, the English tea ritual is celebrated, served with the best blends and a selection of sweet and savory pastries.
The Secret
It seems that the invention of coffee blends is due to Trieste roasters at the beginning of the nineteenth century.
